Osaka and Hiroshima: From War to Wonderful

Osaka and Hiroshima were both prime targets during WWII and so the story of how two war-ravaged cities turned out to be some of the most fun, energetic, and colorful places we visited is a testament to the resilience of the Japanese and their focus on rebuilding after the Second World War.

Osaka is the beating heart of Kansai, the central prefecture in Japan.  It's know for good eatin' and great people watchin' - it's a work hard, play hard town that is even more charming at night as the neon city comes to life.  It's a major port city and the 2.65 million residents are impatient, sometimes gruff, and always colorful.  The city has a true energy about it - a pervasive beat that you can feel as you walk down the sidewalk under the glaring light and the constant noise.  After mediating in the Buddhist temple that morning - this definitely woke our slumber!

Dotombori is Osaka's liveliest nightlife areas.  This is a the view from the famous Ebisu-bashi (bridge).  It's packed with people and energy, and it's hard not to draw references to Times Square.

Osaka nightlife can turn you into a real hermit during the day, but we were insistent on seeing her top historical site Osaka-Jo (castle).  Founded on this site at 1583 the castle has been rebuilt 3 times!  The story inside depicts a fierce battle for dominance between Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu to unify Japan.

Only a few several tons, Matt was kind enough to get the door for me.

Thank you hotel points.  After sleeping on a hardwood floor in a temple, the room at the St. Regis seemed to suit us just fine!  The hotel had a lovely patio on the 17th floor where they maintained their own zen garden.

Of course we could have stayed at one of the local "capsule" hotels - but I don't think our luggage would even have fit!  These hotels are famous for usage by Japanese businessmen who have worked so late (or drank so much) that they missed their last train home to the suburbs.

One of Osaka's top attractions is their world-class aquariums, I'm sorry was I saying something - can't concentrate when I'm in a fish tunnel!

Here are just a few of our favorite critters:

The stately Empire penguins.

He's a little camera shy.  (Probably because most people consider him lunch!)

This baby sea otter was getting a lot of attention from the girls and he seemed to want to flirt back.

The giant spider crabs look like aliens invaders, but I don't think they would be so scary if they were crab cakes?

Always weird and wonderful.

Reaching new heights!  The pier at the aquarium had a giant Ferris wheel -it's said to be the largest in the world at 112 meters tall.  From here you can see both Osaka and Kobe - where's the beef?

The Dotombori-gawa (river) is lit with lanterns the entire length of the city.  Sometimes Osaka is so bright at night it's hard to remember what time it is!

On to Hiroshima!

After a night in Osaka we were headed South to Hiroshima.  A two-hour train ride isn't bad when you can grab a beer and fresh gyoza at the train station.  Why can't plane food be this good?

As soon as we checked into the hotel, I went to check out our view and the Mazda Zoom-Zoom (yup) Stadium was front and center.  I immediately checked the schedule for the Hiroshima Carp (you know those terrifying large goldfish) and we were in luck!  I scored two tickets for the following night.

Imagine my surprise when I arrive at the game to find the Philadelphia Fanatic's estranged Japanese cousin.  It was so strange!  Apparently they love to copy mascots from MLB teams.  Of course, the Fanatic is a top choice.  Imitation is the highest form of flattery!

Then it just got weird.  The only sign in English in the whole ballpark and it's for a Philadelphia Cheesesteak.  I wish I could tell you I took one look at that picture and turned away in digust.  No, I promptly ordered one (it's my duty) - and only then could I confirm my disgust - gross!

During the 7th inning stretch they sing songs and fire off balloons.  Only after perfectly sequencing the count-down.  Honestly, these people can put order to anything!

I traded in my imitation cheesesteak for a steaming bowl of fresh udon noodles.  Now that is a ballpark snack!  Oh yeah and the "beer girls" sell sake instead!

The next morning we woke up early to travel to the island Miyajima, a Unesco World Heritage site, which was ranked one of the top three views in Japan.  The vermilion torii (shrine gate) of the Itsukushima-jinja is considered one of the most beautiful sites in Japan.  In ancient times the island was considered sacred and commoners could not step foot on the land - they could only sail a boat through this "floating" gate.

The island is home to a lot of friendly (and well fed) white-tailed deer.  Some of whom (right) really like to test their limits.

Hiroshima is famous for its okonomi-yaki, a savoury pancake with veggies and meat or seafood cooked on a griddle and served with noodles.  The serve them up fast and hot and you can't find a seat during lunch time!  I think just one is all the energy you will need for a week!

Matt's good at taking pictures of everything else, but this trip my specialty was happy Japanese kids - they are adorable, plentiful and easily delighted.  Great subjects!  This gal was splashing around in mock tidal pool and was having fun man handling a giant snail.  You go girl.

A shot of the torri just as the tide started to come in and the fog started to lift.

For most of the world Hiroshima means just one thing.  The city will forever be remembered for the terrible instant on August 6, 1945 when it became the target of the world's first atomic-bomb attack.  There are few words to express the heaviness in my heart as we approached ground-zero almost 66 years to-the-day of the attacks.  It was a bright and clear, August morning for us, which was the same weather report from the bombing - in fact one of the reasons the city was chosen that day.  There was an eerie sense of responsibility and sadness, but also a sense that to the Japanese this was history and the people of Hiroshima don't want this event to define them.

The bomb exploded almost directly above the Gembaku Domu, now known as the A-Bomb Dome.   It is stunning that it is still standing after all the other materials vaporized.  It was build in 1915 and served as a industrial exhibition hall.  The city has decided to preserve it as a stark reminder of it's tragic past.

On the other side of the Motoyasu river stands the Peace Memorial Park and this cenotaph which contains the names of all the known victims as well as the Flame of Peace, which will only be extinguished once the last nuclear weapon on earth has been destroyed.

The Children's Peace Monument contains thousands and thousands of folded paper cranes from children around the world.  The display was inspired by leukemia victim Sadako Sasaki.  In 1955 at 11 years old she was diagnosed with the disease.  She decided to fold 1000 paper cranes - the crane is the symbol of longevity and happiness - and she thought if she could reach her goal she would be cured.  She sadly passed away before achieving her goal, but her classmates finished folding them for her.  Now children around the world send their cranes to the memorial every year.

I was extremely touched when we came upon this field trip of Japanese school children, learning about the bombing.  Their teacher was not angry or resentful, and she did not lay blame.  She explained to them how important peace was in our world, and that their jobs were to make sure that something like this never happens again.

I saw a lot of peace signs during my time in Japan, but this was one place where I did not hesitate to flash one of my own.

Koya-San: Buddhists Unite!

After many days of a fully packed itinerary, it was time to slow the pace a bit and get in touch with our spiritual side.  Koya-San is the place to go to get your Buddha on.  It is a mystical place in the mountains surrounded by eight peaks.  It is home to the headquarters for the Shingon school of Esoteric Buddhism.  Buddhism was brought to Japan in 816 when a young priest named Kobo Daishi returned from a trip to China with the new teachings.  Every since Koya-San has been the place to find your enlightenment.

Adding to the mystique is the fact that when you arrive on the train platform you actually then transfer to a cable car which then hoists you to the top of the mountain where you are engulfed by mist.  I half expected Yoda to be levitating at the summit!

We spent the night at Shojoshin-in a working Buddhist temple in order to get the authentic experience.  We woke up at 5:00 to join the monks in their daybreak chanting, and indulged in the strict Buddhist cuisine, shojin-ryori.  It was a great experience, and we left feeling peaceful (abeit craving a little Hida beef)!

The main attraction is Oku-no-in.  Any Buddhist worth their salt has a portion of their remains here.  It's a fantastically lush and gorgeous place set amongst huge old trees and stone pathways.  It's a great time to walk through and ponder on your thoughts this life and the next.

These deities are for the protection of children and pregnant mothers.  People often make sure that they are dressed and fed in order to keep them happy!

The path of cedars creates a dense canopy of trees that blocks most sunlight and drops the temperature a few degrees from outside the cemetery - it definitely has the feeling of a lot of souls milling about.

We happened upon a grooved tree stump where people had made small offerings.  Matt found the one coin that was not like the others.

Worshippers ladle water from the nearby river and pour it on the Jizo statues as an offering for the dead.

The size of the trees and the shines are huge and can make you feel very small, it's a good time to think about your place in the world.  (I was also sure that his one was an ent).  There is a neighboring, more modern part of the cemetery where companies place very interesting monuments based on souls loss in their industry, or at their jobs.  This rocket ship was for those perished in the space program.  One of the most entertaining monuments is the White Ant Memorial, which was build by a pesticide company to expiate its guilt for the murder of legions of little critters!

Our temple's central zen garden made for a great view.

East Asian "Buddhist" cuisine differ from Western vegetarian cuisine in one aspect, that is avoidance of killing plant life. Buddhist vinaya for monks and nuns prohibit harming of plants. Therefore, strictly speaking, root vegetables (such as potatoes, carrots or onion) are not to be used as this will result in death of vegetables.

The meditation area in the temple was certainly a place where you could find some peace.

This was our temple room, we slept on the tatami mats with small futons.  There were no locks in the temple and the rooms can be adjusted just by moving the paper screens.  Slide that door in the corner and we would be in our neighbor's room.

I told Matt that I did not think that creating an electrical fire in a temple would bode well for us.  He insisted that this was perfect safe.  As if I was not worried enough about being a future arsonist, I also encounter a few unwelcome guests in a our room.  These monks are worried about murdering vegetables, so I did not think that squashing this intruder would bode well for my reincarnation.  Matt thankfully delivered it to much more comfortable surroundings outside.

Not a bad view to wake up to if you have to be up at 5:00am!

One hour of monotone chanting in Japanese, was not the most stimulating time of my life, but at least I had a front row seat!

Who needs a pet rock?  This is a herd!  This is the largest rock garden in the world.  It is located in Kongobu-Ji the headquarters of the Shingon school.  According to the artist  it is supposed to give the effect of a throng of worshipers eagerly listening to a monks sermon.

These are probably the only pets we are qualified to keep!

We said goodbye to Koya-San by visiting the Dai-to or Great Pagoda.